Saturday, March 15, 2014

Ouray 2014

Ive been spending a few weeks in Ouray climbing ice and getting to know beauty of the San Juan's. With the easily accessible Ouray Ice Park within walking distance and a fortress of back country adventures it is the perfect alpine training grounds.











I met up with Jeff Witt from Jackson ,WY while in the park. We were both eager to get out into the back county after hearing reports of stellar conditions throughout the range.  Instantaneously,  we comprised a plan to meet early the next morning and head out to the notorious Ames Ice Hose in Telluride. 

                                                             
Base of Ames Ice Hose photo Jeff Witt

 The Ames Ice hose was super classic and in great condition.  We nailed it and were stoked to climb more ice so we comprised another plan to for yet another uber classic Bridalveil Falls the next day. With bluebird skies in the forecast we couldn't miss it!


The uber classic Bridalveil Falls photo Jeff Witt







Great steep ice! photo Jeff Witt


Climber on the 3rd pitch photo Jeff Witt


We were on a roll having super fun times climbing classics and the conditions were certainly not deteriorating so we wanted more of course! The next day we headed up to Camp Bird Rd to hit the Senators Gulch and play around on some mixed climbing.

The Senators Gulch photo Jeff Witt


 
Super fun!! photo Jeff Witt




With yet more splitter weather in the forecast we kept on feeding the ice climbing fever with a run up the incredibly mystical Bird Brain Boulevard. The route was spectacular! A mixed climbing odessy through a natural passage of loose San Juan rock.  Adventure climbing at its finest!

Base of the BBB photo Jeff Witt



Jeff starting up one of many ice steps inside the chimney

Saturday, March 8, 2014

Postponed!! Woman on Lhotse 2014 Expedition

Lhotse Expedition 2014




Photo taken from wikipedia

Objective: Mount Lhotse, 27,940 ft (8,516 meters), 4th highest peak in the world located in the Khumbu Region, Nepal.  I will climb through the northwest face without supplemental oxygen and with very little support.

History : First climbed to main summit  in 1956 by Swiss team Ernst Reiss and FritzLuchsinger.  Lhotse has three summits: Lhotse Main (8,516 meters), Lhotse Shar (8,383 meters), and Lhotse East (8,413 meters). I will be attempting the main summit. Lhotse is the least climbed of the 14, 8,000 meter peaks.

Duration:  Approx 45 days,
April 10, 2014  San Francisco to Kathmandu
June 6, 2014     Kathmandu to San Francisco

Basic Outline of Expedition

01
Arrival Kathmandu
02
Kathmandu
03
Flight: Ktm-Lukla, Trek to Phakding
04
Namche
05
Namche,
06
Trek to Tengboche,
07
Trek to Pheriche
08
Trek to Lobuche
09
Trek to Kalapattar -  Base camp
10-38
Climbing period of LHOTSE
39
BC to Lobuche,
40
Trek to Tengboche,
41
Trek to Namche,
42
Trek to Lukla,
43
Flight Lukla-Ktm,
44
Kathmandu

Team : Myself, with Basecamp logistics provided by Prestige Adventure. I will be climbing solo with minimal support. This will be my second attempt on an 8,000 meterpeak. I climbed on Cho-Oyu in 2011, completely unsupported and without oxygen. I have experience developing new routes on virgin peaks in the Himalaya, Karakorum, and in South America. 





          photo:Jeff Witt
                                   


Expedition Coverage : Photo and video, as well as real time dispatches for the entire duration of the trip on www.climbingmadness.blogspot.com

Sponsors : Thank you for all the support!!